Wed--I met Clare for her Developmental Psych class, where the prof used the phrase "cop on" about 20 times. It's a new one on me; means common sense, savy, street smarts type of intelligence. I'll see if I can incorporate it to gain some authenticity. Much more fun than incorporating "grand", which needs the right accent for it to work and then one would feel like a poser. I certainly don't want that. Although I think Pat has "Tanks a mill, dat's grand" down pat.
We had the book of Kells display to ourselves that morning and the long room was powerful. Too much so for me; I had an attack of vertigo looking up at the beautiful stacks and down at the archaic texts. I gingerly made my way down the stairs and through the front square, feeling old and fragile, and I am neither, damn it! Tea with Clare and Siomha somewhat revived me and we headed to O'Connell house, making our way through the hordes of Trinity and UCD students who had closed the streets and were protesting the doubling of their registration fees. The ND students had little sympathy for the students' cause considering the hefty tuition and fees they pay their mighty University, but as Emer said, everything is relative. Clare and I had lunch at Cafe Fresh (at the top of the beautiful Powerscourt building). I came armed with a list of eateries and pubs that I wanted to find. I needed the eateries to be affordable, have good value, offer healthy fare, and to be somewhat interesting. So Cornucopia and Cafe Fresh fit the bill. I also had a list of pubs. Had a pint at Messers before we went to The Abbey Theatre to see John Gabriel Borkman. Messrs was not on my list, but it was a nod to Pat who liked it when he was here. Of the play, Allan Rickman was great and all, but Fiona Shaw was fabulous. I couldn't get enough of her. Late bite to eat at Yamamouri.
We had the book of Kells display to ourselves that morning and the long room was powerful. Too much so for me; I had an attack of vertigo looking up at the beautiful stacks and down at the archaic texts. I gingerly made my way down the stairs and through the front square, feeling old and fragile, and I am neither, damn it! Tea with Clare and Siomha somewhat revived me and we headed to O'Connell house, making our way through the hordes of Trinity and UCD students who had closed the streets and were protesting the doubling of their registration fees. The ND students had little sympathy for the students' cause considering the hefty tuition and fees they pay their mighty University, but as Emer said, everything is relative. Clare and I had lunch at Cafe Fresh (at the top of the beautiful Powerscourt building). I came armed with a list of eateries and pubs that I wanted to find. I needed the eateries to be affordable, have good value, offer healthy fare, and to be somewhat interesting. So Cornucopia and Cafe Fresh fit the bill. I also had a list of pubs. Had a pint at Messers before we went to The Abbey Theatre to see John Gabriel Borkman. Messrs was not on my list, but it was a nod to Pat who liked it when he was here. Of the play, Allan Rickman was great and all, but Fiona Shaw was fabulous. I couldn't get enough of her. Late bite to eat at Yamamouri.
Thurs--Slept til noon by accident, shocking! Must be recovering from the trip. Ran over to the Chester Beatty museum by the Dublin Castle to meet Nicole at the Silk Road Cafe. Wonderful. inexpensive lebanese food. Explored the museum, and the Castle's garden. Afterward we wandered Williams St., Greater St. George's St., and picked up some veggies and bread at the Copinger Row outdoor market. I have big plans to cook a bit for the starving students. Clare raced back to O'Connell house to rehearse for the Arvo Part piece, The Deer's Cry.
I left my diggs at the Davenport and Clare helped me shlep my bags over to O'Neills Victorian Pub and Guesthouse. The Davenport doubles their fee during the weekend and I wouldn't have any of that. I loved their shower, but their light bulbs were so dim I could hardly read at night. I can't stand paying more than necessary for a room, for then I won't have the money to check out all my pubs and eateries. If the place is clean, somewhat quiet, with a decent bed,that will do O'Neill's is on Pearce street, which some of the kids thought was a bit sketchy of an area, but there are very posh hotels down the way, and it is right across from the Pearce entrance to Trinity. I'm from Detroit anyway; this is nothing.
Ate at Gruel. Really, really loved the place, great food, great, low key feel. Saw the play adaptation of Jane Eyre at the Gate Theatre. So so. I told Clare to read the book. Didn't really work for a play. The BBC production was far superior to the play, but it's a different thing to pull off with a play. My favorite thing about the play and the theatre was seeing the line of tea cups and saucers laid out on the counter in preparation for intermission. There was a bar area down below which was very busy and all, but the upper service area was for tea. 20-25 china cups and saucers laid out, ready for the rush, with more behind at the ready. A pint at another pub on my list, the Long Hall. Great, old, non-touristy. Mike and Siomha joined us near closing time.
I left my diggs at the Davenport and Clare helped me shlep my bags over to O'Neills Victorian Pub and Guesthouse. The Davenport doubles their fee during the weekend and I wouldn't have any of that. I loved their shower, but their light bulbs were so dim I could hardly read at night. I can't stand paying more than necessary for a room, for then I won't have the money to check out all my pubs and eateries. If the place is clean, somewhat quiet, with a decent bed,that will do O'Neill's is on Pearce street, which some of the kids thought was a bit sketchy of an area, but there are very posh hotels down the way, and it is right across from the Pearce entrance to Trinity. I'm from Detroit anyway; this is nothing.
Ate at Gruel. Really, really loved the place, great food, great, low key feel. Saw the play adaptation of Jane Eyre at the Gate Theatre. So so. I told Clare to read the book. Didn't really work for a play. The BBC production was far superior to the play, but it's a different thing to pull off with a play. My favorite thing about the play and the theatre was seeing the line of tea cups and saucers laid out on the counter in preparation for intermission. There was a bar area down below which was very busy and all, but the upper service area was for tea. 20-25 china cups and saucers laid out, ready for the rush, with more behind at the ready. A pint at another pub on my list, the Long Hall. Great, old, non-touristy. Mike and Siomha joined us near closing time.
Fri-- Morning tea with Clare and Siomha, then wandered. Walked around Christchurch, St. Audeon's. Tea and soup at the Brazen Head, Dublin's oldest pub. Best seafood chowder I have ever tasted. We kept wandering looking for St. Patrick's Cathedral, found ourself in the Liberties, an area around the Cathedral, so called because it had been independent of the government and under the jurisdiction of the Cathedral. It was a dirt poor territory during Jonathan Swift's tenure. It is presently not the best, but I found it cool. Another slice of life as it were. Kevin Whelan told the ND students that that was the only area where he had been mugged. We picked up some chicken at a butcher shop in the Liberties and eventually found the Cathedral. We opted to visit the wonderful little gem of a library nearby, called Marsh's Library. We had little time before closing and were not charged the small entrance fee. A gentleman gave us a short intro to this 300 year old library that is still in use. A young woman was standing on the sliding ladder with a kerchief covering her hair, dusting the old volumes. In the second room were the cages where a reader was locked in as they read one of the books from the stacks. When finished reading, one would be sprung from the cage and return the book. Later I cooked a stir-fry that was shared with Siomha and Mike. Clare went out for the night and I hung around the apartment and made some chicken vegetable/pasta soup with caramelized onions that didn't caramelize well but whose scent permeated each item of my clothing. I snuck out after midnight risking the wrath of the Trinity security guards who would probably guess I was not a Trinity student. Almost caught…another black eye for Clare, exposing her debauched lifestyle at Trinity.
Sat—I had a great, big breakfast in the cozy, little dining area in the Guesthouse. The room was filled with sunshine and I looked out the window trying to spot Clare who was coming to meet me. But we were operating at cross-purposes. She was looking for me, and I missed her when I went downstairs to scan the street. No phone so no contact. Eventually we found each other and resurrected our morning at the Saturday market at Temple Bar held in the Meeting House area near the International Film Institute and the Photography Exhibit. Great food vendors, great market. Split a curry and a lamb kebab.
Walked down Wexford Street/Camden Street for a little taste of non-touristy Dublin. Popped into Whelans and picked up old music posters for the bare walls of Clare’s apartment living room. Saw many of the places that were on my list. Somewhere along the line we saw the Bald Barista, Green 19, Asteos, Cassidy’s. But more importantly, we shopped. My favorite kind of place…A second-hand store, or a charity shop as it’s called here. The one we looked at was called, “Charity shop for the Elderly.” I firmly believe the proceeds benefit the elderly, not that one need to be elderly to shop there. After all, they let Clare in.
Tea at Beweley’s with a nice fire. We are waiting patiently for the Christmas lights to be lit. They’ve been installing the displays for days now, but no glow. They better come on before I leave. We returned to the flat for a quick dinner of the non-carmelized onion soup, and on to the film institute for The Social Network. Then off to Pat’s favorite pub, O’Donaghues. Jammed. Big rugby crowd. A lovely Spanish woman offered us her few inches of space against the wall. We hugged the wood for dear life; I figured I’d be bruised by all the jostling around. We met two nice fellas, Eugene and Mick from Wicklow. They asked to join our 5 inches of space and Clare stayed around for awhile, but got a bit tired of Mick's singing to us. He does a mean Veil of Avoca. Mick, by the way, is his late 70's. Clare inched up closer to the session and I remained listening to Mick and holding his hand. Eugene just smiled and told me of his little girls.
Now, we have to head out. We had written much more, but it is saved on Clare's computer back in Ireland. We're off to have a bite to eat in FLORENCE!
Love,
Eileen (Clare's mom)
Now, we have to head out. We had written much more, but it is saved on Clare's computer back in Ireland. We're off to have a bite to eat in FLORENCE!
Love,
Eileen (Clare's mom)
Yay! Love you Momma! So jealous of you guys...
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